I seem to have an adventuress spirit with extreme wanderer tendencies. From my galavants through mountains, jungles and the deserts I have enjoyed satisfying my
explorative nature when in places a world away from Western civilisation. Something I recommend we all do to gain alternative perspectives and have some 'life stranger than fiction' experiences. You might imagine the shock I had the day I returned from an 'exploration in the wilderness' to learn that Interpol were looking for me.
After trekking to Everest Basecamp (EBC) and heading to Pokhara, Nepal, I hit a little low. I craved peace and solitude and found the vibe there, with its multitudes of impressions from all the travellers that pass through, quite exhausting despite it being monsoon season.
So I developed a little routine for myself which was to wake up, have a shower with cold water, sit on the bamboo tables of Freedom cafe and enjoy a cup of chai tea while doing some writing or sketching admiring the beautiful scenery across the lake. Given I had been living with Tibetan nuns and then gone on the mission to EBC it was no surprise that I wanted to have some downtime to climatise and get my feet back on the ground. And so I decided I would go to the
Vipassana meditation retreat nearby for some transcendental zen while resting the weary limbs (this was not the case at all. Sitting still for nearly 11 hours a day was evidently hard work!)
I gave my folks a heads up that I would be offline for a while during the retreat and then upon my return, being overwhelmed by chatterboxes, I decided to accompany some friends to the hillside peaks of Panchasse on a trek
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Panchasse
is a beautiful yantra pilgrimage site and an incredible trek. Panchasse, literally meaning Pancha: Five, Aasan: Seats, is the meeting place if 5 peaks covered with lush green forest of diverse flora and fauna. Before leaving I dropped Mum a note on Skype explaining I would go on the trek really not elaborating nor having any idea on time.
My Australian friend James accompanied me along with my Nepali friend and guide, Ram and his brother. James is an incredibly beautiful boy who was turning 25 years old and we shared some amazing inspirations and perspectives together. On the trek up he went for a dip in the waterfall, only to later find that he had taken his passport and wallet in with him.
"I think the Universe is telling me to abandon my identity for my birthday" he joked as he spread the contents of his wallet and his smudge passport out to dry on the rocks.
James and I headed to Panchasse alone, leaving Ram and his brother in the Gurung village nearby, while we decided to embrace our inner mowgli's and venture in to the wild. Nobody besides a Russian Baba (spiritual man) was living up in the peaks of Panchasse and from there you could see the epic views of the Annapurna range and trek from peak to peak where there were temples and shrines of Buddhist and Hindu descent. The place was a powerfully mystical place.
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The Tower & infamous rock in the clouds |
James and I, without a place to sleep, went on mini missions around the mountaintops searching for places to sleep above the cloudscape. The first night we slept on a rock which had a crazy mandala inscribed on to it which provoked our curiosity. I recall giggling away with James saying that there could be animals looking at us thinking
"what the f**k are these tourists doing sleeping on a rock?" until James explained that he imagined a wild jungle cat watching us from the bushes in the dark... then I got a tad freaked with the realisation that I was sleeping out in the wild on a rock with mysterious inscriptions on it in cave man speak. Not your average couchsurfing spot. More like rock surfing. A hard mattress indeed.
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The Tower |
We woke up to rain. Lots of rain. Our humble sleeping bags were getting absolutely drenched.
"James, we need to relocate!" which we did to "The Tower" the white concrete viewpoint where the Baba was living in the room below but would prove good shelter for us from the rain.
There we made a protective wall out of the wooden benches and resettled in to the darkness to the sound of raindrops and nature. The next morning we woke up to the birds and the sunrise over the clouds. The views were stunning despite the 5 hours or less sleep.
The baba who lived downstairs sporting a simple grey and dusty loin cloth saw us waking up. He had taken a vow of silence but through his simple hand gestures, it appeared he was inviting us to join him for a cup of chai. A uniting language in this world. So in to his little den we went. Over tea, Baba told us through sign language of another potential location for us to sleep and we learned that the pilgrim kitchen was open so we could have some tasty
Dal Bhat before embarking on our next adventure, through the wilderness in our bare feet picking off leeches and scaring off cows to the lakeside temple area. I told you; Mowgli style.
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Having a giggle in Ajay babas den. |
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Lake Temple where we spent the night
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The lakeside temple is where many pilgrims come during their holy ceremony the Balachuturdashi Festival (
info on Panchase here) and there were remains of the celebratory decorations around the area. James and I scouted for a place to spend the night like a couple of ferrel kids while enjoying the beautiful scenery. In the end, we decided to clean the temple and spend the night inside it.
That was when things got incredibly eerie. In the evening we sat next to the lake under the moonlight as James did one of his magical intention healings. Before I knew it, I was shedding tears like a baby and taking some deep breaths. Not my style at all, but hey, what's a bit of human vulnerability? I sniffled up my tears, shared a joke or two with James, saying thanks for a good cry before we called it a night.
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Seriously, what is the boar God?
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"AAHHHOOOOOOOOOOO" I woke up startled.
"Oh my God the killer jungle cats are coming after us!!" my imagination said. "
That or, of course, Aliens". The loud indescribable noise continued.
"James..... James..." I whispered as I looked up to see a shadow of the temple boar God staring down at me with his multiple limbs and weaponry.
"AAHHHHOOOOOOOO" the potentially killer jungle cat noise continued as my mate next to me was still fast asleep. "
We're safe" I told myself looking at the closed door at our feet. I decide to stay put and try to get back to sleep but then my bladder kicked in. Gosh darn, you know that feeling you have at the cinema half-way through a movie, when you really really need to pee? Well that happened.
"Ow." I realised I needed to get outside and face the aliens or killer wild cats to go for a lady squat in the dark.
I wriggled around, still calling out James' name and started trying to nudge him awake with my feet. Finally he looked at me, saw I was a tad unnerved and offered kindly to be my torch bearer as I braved the darkness to take a jungle leak. No wild cat or alien attacks after all.
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James, fellow traveller |
The next morning, before James had chance to really wake up, I had packed up everything and was ready to move on. While I loved being Mogli, I was also ready for some comfortable sleep and I knew we would be stopping in the Gurung people's village Sidhana on the way down to stay at a family farm where they made everything from scratch and the most delicious food.
By the time we made it back to the main tourist hub, Pokhara, we'd been away for over a week. We were both tired and yet feeling very much alive after the wilderness experience. I recall realising I should get in to an internet cafe to reconnect with the virtual world and speak to my folks. I logged in to my email and had multiple emails from my Mum and Dad progressing from "so where are you?", "please contact us" to "we've called the embassy and interpol are looking for you."
My immediate reaction, after the surprise, was a little bit of annoyance if I am totally honest. It felt like I wasn't being trusted to take care of myself and pretty dramatic. I responded letting everyone know I was safe and sound while venting my disbelief to my friend Ram. Ram listened and looked at me sincerely;
"Jess, you're lucky you have people out there who love and care for you". His words cut me deep. Ram's father had passed away when he was 3 years old and he put it all in to perspective. I realised that my Dad had slipped in to panic after googling "missing person nepal" and the first story that came up was of a
23 year old Belgian girl who went trekking on her own and was found decapitated nearby with all her belongings still on her person. I suppose every parent would be a little freaked out and concerned after hearing a story like that in an area where their daughter was 'exploring'.
That time in Panchasse, with my brother James and the Russian baba will remain one of those remarkable and enriching experiences that could never be repeated. It was weird and yet magical. I don't even think words do the experience justice. Nevertheless I learned so much, from appreciating nature, the simple things and now also having a silly joke to share with my Pops (along with a deeper sense of gratitude for him).
"Worry is a wasted emotion" is a saying my Pops would always tell me. I believe him. Nevertheless its much easier said than practiced.
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Local Garung School Headmaster |
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Gurung village lady |